rookie

This is a few days of Rookie's Cambodia trip report from September 2002 and updated  February 2004.

At the end of this file are some inexpensive hotel and other suggestions for Koh Kong and Sihanoukville.

 Note: 'Nit' (not real name) is a Thai gal who I took to Cambo. While many thought taking _any_ gal to Cambo was like 'taking coals to Newcastle', I thoroughly enjoyed the comfort of someone I knew as well as seeing Cambo through the eyes of a Thai who had never been there. It was a fun 12-days, then I had her fly home and I spent a few weeks experiencing the other delights of Cambo, which  I've come to know well from past trips.

Fri Sep 13th 2002 Up at 5am go to bus stop, on Sukhimvit at Pattaya Klang at 5:45 and bus arrives at 6:30. 5 hours to Trat. There are express buses to Trat  which arrive at about 5, 6 and 11am. Only the early two buses will get you to Trat with enough time to make the Cambo border crossing. Visit with Moon & Kit at NP Guesthouse in Trat. Leave balance of Dalama CD's with them, we eat breakfast and Moon graciously doesn't charge us for the meal. Take mini-van  to Ban Had Lek, check out of Thailand and into Cambo. Chat with a Lieutenant at Cambo immigration, handing him the normal $20 US each for Nit and I, knowing  that they are scalping 1100-Bt ($27.50US) for entry from all tourists. He hints  that I didn't pay enough, but in talking to him I find he has a bad knee from  soccer and I briefly evaluate his knee & recommend he go to Queen Sirikit  Hospital in Sattahip, Thailand. He doesn't bring up the extra fee again and  we go to the visa window where Nit has to pay an extra 100 Bt and I nothing extra. Score one for the farangs!! Moto to Koh Pich via 'Rithy' one of the many moto drivers who hustled us to take us to KKong, but I had repeatedly rebuffed  him. He finally accepts 40 Bt for each of two motos and then another guy blocks  our exit and seeks 50-Bt departure fee...another scam. Our moto driver runs interference and I pay a mere 500-Riel (5-Bt) to the scammer and off we go. Moto takes us to Koh Pich, no commission paid to the moto, but I agree to rent his moto for 100-Bt a day and let him buy our Ferry tix for a Sunday departure.  Drive Nit around town, even showing her the red-light area. Eat at Cheap Charlies, Lind, Haeng & kids immediately recognize me...nice folks and good food, too. Take Nit to Otto's have coffee and she chats with their long time ass't  manager. About 5 farangs there, none socializing with us. Back at the Koh Pich the AC is not working and TV reception is terrible. Have to wake to attendant  who finally fixes the TV somewhat and also gets the AC working. Not happy with the Koh Pich hotel this time and we were their only guests. Have play time,  long time that evening. I do recommend 'Rithy' as a moto driver for those new to the area. He treated me right, though I did have to bargain, a necessity  in Cambo. His mobile phone is xxxxx
[Note: update 2/04: Rithy phone number deleted & no longer recommended - 'rookie']

Sat Sep 14th 2002 Up early and head to the new Promin Koh Kong Hotel, along  the waterfront, just south of the bridge. Rooms nice and inexpensive and I book  a fan room at 200-Bt for the night; has TV, but no AC, hot water or refrig, which is fine by me. Go back and happily check out of the Koh Pich, due to their poor service, then onto Cheap Charlies for breakfast. Then we take my rented moto past the Monument for the Dead, and continue along the wide dirt road the  25km to the Mekong river headwaters, which has the Ta-Tai waterfalls. Much mud  on the road for the first 7 km, and my shoes and feet are laden with red mud.  At the river rent a boat for 200-Bt R/T to take us the 4-km to the falls. Nit  worried as she is not a good swimmer; she only dog-paddles. The waterfall is  spectacular, compared to my seeing it 7 months ago during the dry season. There is so much rushing water, it would be lethal to play in the falls, unlike my prior visit to the falls. Last February, during the dry season when the waters are low, I frolicked and played with another gal in the falls. At that time, no one else was there and the boat just waited four hours, at the base of the falls, until we were ready to return. Nit and I moto back, eating at Thai food place (near the Monument for the Dead), then getting moto washed of the red  mud as a moto-wash place. Back to hotel. Soon Nit is hungry, as she has eaten only twice that day, rather than her normal five times. We head out to some  of the towns food stands and she finally makes a selection. Eats only part of the large serving of noodles and I just have a beer Lao. Then back to hotel and another long session and some head.

Sun Sep 15th Up early as Rithy brings the KKong-Sihanoukville ferry tix (600-Bt  each)at 7am and picks up his moto. I pay him 1400-Bt total, including two days use of his moto at 100-Bt/day. We get breakfast at nearby ferry dock and board  boat. Fortunately, it was a fairly decent trip to Sihanoukville; weather good  and no wind. Nit slept most of the way. At Sihanoukville dock I negotiate a moto to Chez Mari-yan, on Victory Hill, & rent a bungalow for $10. As the  bungalows overlook the beach I thought that Nit would enjoy the change of scenery,  though the bungalow's accommodations are nothing special. Meet 'PJ' the Indian  guy who I've known from past trips, who works at the Melting Pot. Nit and I  get breakfast; Nit has French toast and a banana pancake for me with some coffee. Damn, I actually ate a banana pancake...a first! I hope it doesn't morph me into one of those boring follow-the-leader backpackers!! Negotiate a rental rate, with a shop on Victory Hill, of $6/day for a Honda-MX-250cc. We drive  around town showing Nit some of the sights and beaches. Back at room, take laundry to local lady by Chez Mari-yan. Go to the main market and have my one sandal,  whose strap broke when negotiating the mud-laden road to the Ta-tai waterfall, at Koh Kong, to a shoe repairman. He takes about 10 minutes and repairs the sandal on the spot, charging me a mere 1000-R (25-cents). Evening go to market get Khmer food....great pickled salad, she had something with small frogs and  I dunno what I was eating, but we all but licked the plate due to hunger (5000-R).  Then looked for another hotel as Nit thought Chez Mari-Yan was too expensive  ($10). Nit has always tried to curtail my spending and save me money, but never  for the reasons that most bar-gals have...that of expecting to receive a healthy  baht reward for their own. She thought we could get a nice place much cheaper. We looked at a few places at $5 and will return to book one of them in the morning.  Stop at the Marlin bar on Ekareach, but they don't stock Malibu rum drink, so  we order black Russians. They served us a tall coke glass with ice, Kahlua and coke. Coke?? Since when does a black Russian contain cola? I complained that  we didn't get what we ordered but to no avail, even though it was the Aussie owner's daughter who mixed the drinks. Spoke with Hamish, son of the owner who  informs us they'll have a fan room vacancy in the morning. Back at Victory Hill we stop at a new eating place, next to PJ's eatery (the Melting Pot). Run by  a guy from Singapore, with his Viet wife. Place serves a great variety of food  and had been open only three weeks. Have a drink and go to room for sleep. Tired from a long day.

Mon Sep 16th Awoke at 6am, hearing wind and thinking it was raining, I went  back to sleep. Awoke again at 8:30 began play and pushed for and got a good  BJ to finish. 9:30 head out to eat at Melting Pot again, Nit has pineapple pancakes  and I a western breakfast. I often have a western-type breakfast in the mornings and eat local food for all other meals. Back in room pack and then check out, pay $10 for room, and move to the Marlin where we take a $5 room. Upon check-in  we find that the room not only is musty and the bedspread may have never been  washed. A hour later there is an electrical problem and we lose all power to  the room, but adjacent rooms still have power. Speak with Hamish, the owner's  son and he arranges for us to move to an adjacent room, after being unable to remedy problem. New room is slightly larger and cleaner, but like the other  rooms has somewhat dilapidated furniture. We settle in the new room then head out to Stung Hau, the fishing village that's about 25km away. Halfway there, Nit discovers that I forgot to take my camera, but we press on anyway. A wide dirt road in good shape. We drive around Stung Hau, the large bay is filled  with hundreds of fishing boats. The wind is strong and blowing water over the  boat landings. Stop and get a Fanta, then Nit looks for some food. We fail to find a place that serves fresh fish, due to language problems. Head back to town and the local market where we eat some Khmer food. Back to the Marlin and  rest up from the day's journey. I'm still hungry as not much of the Khmer food  we ordered appealed to me. Asked Marlin's owner, Richard, where the best seafood  restaurants were and he recommends a few including the New Beach restaurant, which is located near the casino by Victory Beach. It's about 8pm and the wind is howling and the streets wet from the intermittent rain, which has occurred all day. The New Beach Restaurant is located on the water's edge; there is only two other diners eating when we arrive. I order a large shrimp dish and she  a smaller dish with large shrimp (about $15 with drinks). Food and service are  excellent, but the wind is nearly blowing our meal away. After dinner head to Mick & Craig's bar & restaurant. Order a white Russian for each of us  and they are prepared properly, unlike our experience at the Marlin. Mixed drinks are a mere $1.50 after 9pm, the cheapest in Sihanoukville. I order a second; Nit rarely drinks alcohol. I start chatting with the waiter, Aaron, who I find  is a Brit & Canadian and has been working at the bar for 3-months, while  traveling on an around the world air ticket. Nice guy about 25 y/o. As we arrived a few minutes before 9pm, I was charged regular rates ($2/ea), rather than happy hour prices which began at 9pm for the initial round of drinks. I've got a mild buzz on and we mount the motorcycle and make our way back to the Marlin. Both  quite tired. Sleep!!

Tue Sep 17th Up at about 9am and have breakfast at the Marlin. Decent food with an Aussie flair, with BBQ beans and stewed tomatoes served with eggs and  toast. Take moto and check into the NASA hotel, one of the places we looked  at previously last Sunday night. Clean room, but old, with two-double beds, refrig, TV (with all the good cable channels) and bathroom (no hot water) for  $5/nite. A good deal! Back to the Marlin to check-out and move to the NASA.  Then moto up Road #4, towards Ream National Park. Stop to show Nit the Wat on the hill, which overlooks Sihanoukville. Return to hotel to get some soap bubbles and again head to Ream Park. Very windy with intermittent rain. Rain was quite heavy earlier in the morning, but is hopefully letting up. Stop at Ream ranger  station, but as it's now 1:30 and still raining, we decide to possibly take a tour tomorrow. Ranger spoke fair English and was quite helpful. Then onto  Ream Beach as I was hoping for a screw with Nit in the ocean. But, the water  was dirty due to being churned by the heavy wind and Nit wasn't about to go swimming. Showed her the area and then moto'ed on the hard-packed beach sand to a small fishing village. Nit is spreading soap bubbles everywhere. I dunno if the area kids or she enjoyed them more. Head back to Sihanoukville, going to the market for a Khmer meal, then to the NASA hotel. Now about 5:30 pm. I shower and Nit watches TV then naps. About an hour later she's hit with a stomach problem, possibly due to the corn she got from a vendor and ate after our Khmer meal. I didn't have any of the corn and felt fine. She had a long session of  worshipping the toilet bowl. She again relaxed watching the TV and intermittently napping. Said she was much better, but still slightly off kilter at 7:30pm. I'm getting hungry and about 8:30 she says she is feeling better and we return to the New Beach restaurant for dinner. It's raining and we are the only customers.  Take some pix of the staff and signage. During the meal she again feels her  stomach acting up. I finish my meal; she gets a doggie bag for hers and we brave  he rain back to NASA. I'm restless and hoping sleep will help her feel better;  I leave her alone and head off to Mick & Craig's. Chat with Aaron, having  three White Russians and he offers me some toke which we smoke. He said he bought  about 3-ounces for smoke for $5. He also sells me nearly an ounce of toke, for  a buck I pay him $3, none-the-less. As Nit doesn't touch the stuff, I hide my newly acquired stash, knowing I will enjoy it after I send Nit back to Thailand. About midnight I moto the wet streets back to the NASA, smiling with a slight  buzz.

Wed Sep 18th Up at 10am, Nit feeling better and we share her shrimp dinner from last night. Then off to Marlin for a western breakfast at 11:30. Tell Richard,  Marlin's owner, why we checked-out, due to the mildew smells on the 3rd floor. He appreciates the input and surely will correct the problem. I walk to the new Capitol bus station, a few doors down from Marlin, and find their last bus  to PPenh leaves at 12:30. Not enough time for us to take it. I go to GST and  find they have a bus at 1:30pm; I buy two tickets. We rush to get our laundry from the local shop, then back to the hotel to pack. It's now nearly 1pm. Earlier  I'd told NASA we'd stay another night, as their check-out time is at noon. After  packing I gave the deskman a $1 after telling him we'd be leaving today after  all. He surely pocketed the money and didn't argue about our slight overstay. I drop Nit and the luggage at the bus station then ride to Victory Hill to return  the motorcycle. Pay the $18 for three days use, get my pport back and they take  me back to the bus station at no charge. The bus ride to PPenh uneventful and  then we moto to the Paris and check-in. Surprised that the staff all remembers me. We settle in and Harry Seaman and his gal join us for dinner at the corner  Khmer restaurant. God food at decent prices. Harry Seaman suggests I take Nit to the bumper cars that night. It's about 8:30 and we moto to the amusement  area, first stopping at an area which we find is just rides for kids; then a  block later to the bumper cars which have closed for the evening. Stroll by a skating rink across the street, then back to the kiddie area, where I get  Nit to ride a carousel with horses that the rider can cause to buck. Nit gets sick/dizzy and pleads aloud for the ride to stop. We sit for a while as she  recovers then moto to the Walkabout. Have two white Russians, chat with Sambo  (now Glen's wife) who remembers me from past visits and then we head back to the hotel. I encounter Sophann in the hotel lobby and asked him if he would be available to drive us a few hours on Friday at 9am, as I want to show Nit  the common tourist sites... Killing fields and Khmer-Rouge Torture prison. I'm  to call him at 8am Fri to confirm.

Thur Sep 19th Wake up at 8am. Weather in PPenh and the traffic, though horrendous, seems bearable so I decide to rent a motorcycle, which will provide more freedom and less daily cost than paying moto drivers. Go to Lucky-Lucky and the owner's  wife runs out to greet me. Amazing the memory recall of some of these folks. Rather than a Baja type bike, which I prefer for riding on the poorer roads to explore the remote villages, I ask for a Honda AX-1 250cc, as they have a smaller frame, better suited for Nit to get on and off. Charged $5/day and leave my Pport. Take moto to the backpacker area by the gold capped mosque on Boeung Kak lake, and we have breakfast at the Lazy Gecko G/H. I get reacquainted with Craig, the owner, who previously owned the Melting Pot in Sihanoukville. Spend  the day showing Nit some of the area sights: the FCC club, the Royal Palace,  a trip to the strip of land separating the Tongle Sap from the Mekong River,  visit the Wat Phnom, Central and Russian markets. While heading to the Wat Phnom,  I made a left turn from Monivong to 108th St. I was waved over by two cops on  the corner, who stepped into the street and stopped me. I knew they were going  to hit me up for money, but didn't know why. They pointed to Monivong indicating  I can't turn left. I looked and didn't see any sign, until I looked across the street. The sign was on the opposite side I was traveling on. They wanted $10  US in graft...and upon indicating to them I had little money on me, they reduced their greed to $5. I pulled my money out, gently taking only the Riel out of  my pocket, leaving the wad of US $ I was carrying in my pocket. I showed them  I had a mere 1300-R (about $1.25). They wanted to buy two beers and said they needed a dollar each. I reached back into my pocket and carefully removed two  single US dollars from the cash I was carrying. They never realized I had a  wad of dollars in my pocket. They smiled, took the money and I took leave. During later days I had a few similar episodes of cops trying to wave me and my motorcycle over. I'd learned my lesson and just gave a feigned innocent smile and a wave and just continued driving past them. Then I knew that they wouldn't chase me;  they'll just wait to stop another victim. Besides their 100cc motos are no match  for a motorcycle. We get back at about 5:30 and are hungry. Yesterday I'd planned  on dinner with Harry Seaman & his gal at some Khmer restaurant/nightclub  he knows, which is across the Japanese Bridge, so we shared a small meal at  the corner restaurant to curb our hunger before dinner. I had the hotel buy  a plane ticket to BKK for Nit as the weather was not conducive to her taking the ferry out of Sihanoukville. Told that the Friday night flight was booked  they got her a seat on the Sat evening flight. So she stays with me another day. Back at hotel, I use the bath soap I'd bought earlier in the day, to create  Nit's first experience with both using a bathtub and having a bubble bath. It took forever for the tub to fill, due to the lower water pressure from the hot  water heater. Nit cleans my toenails, which are filthy from the day's riding.  Then we have a great screw in the tub. Harry Seaman and his gal knock on our door just after our session. We dress and follow Harry Seaman's moto driver to the restaurant. A large place, about 5km East of the Japanese bridge, the Heng Lek is filled with Khmer and we the only barangs. En-route, east of the bridge, we pass by a number of large well-lite Khmer clubs and I realize I'd passed by them all in previous trips to the remote towns, but never stopped in any of them. The menu is an enormous book, typical of a Chinese restaurant.  We are quickly surrounded by six beer gals, each one wearing costumes for the brand the represent. Then we are overwhelmed by vendors visiting our table, offering trinkets, toys, flowers, shoe shines, and tokens to buy for the entertainers on stage. They were a real nuisance! The food service was incredible. One's  glass was never more than an inch or two low before someone topped it off, and ice cubes were constantly added to all drinks by the waiters. Food was superb.  We each ordered one dish to share, me the Spring rolls (my medium order turned  out to be about two dozen rolls!), and small orders of squid salad by Nit, duck by Harry Seaman and some Khmer sour-soup. It proved too much to eat, although only 'small' servings were ordered from the menu. I wonder what the medium and large serving of the main meals were like? After some singers, dancers and traditional  Khmer slapstick comedy, the entertainment ended, we paid the bill, which totaled  a mere $22 including drinks and tip, and we left returning to the hotel. It was still sprinkling a light rain. Harry Seaman had headed to Martini's with his gal and we were to meet them later. Nit and I made a stop at the hotel then  headed to Martini's, with me getting lost en-route, as I again repeated my mistake  of turning south on the main street before Mao Se Tong . At Martini's we had a drink, then Nit wanted to go into the disco. Oh, well, I acquiesced and joined  her. A crowded dance floor may have hidden my out of date dance talents. Left  after a few hours and back to the hotel and some much needed sleep.

Fri Sep 20th Awoke before 8am, and had desk cancel the wake-up call and called Sophann to inform him I now have a moto and wont need his services. Showered and lounged about room until nearly 11am. Ate at the Paris restaurant, sitting with Harry Seaman, who was finishing his meal. Then took Nit to "Choeung  Ek Killing Fields monument", with a short stop at the Russian Market, and  then the "Toul Sleng" Khmer Rouge torture center. Nit was silent all the way...I tried to explain their meanings and what these site represented  as best I could. I then wanted to go to "L'Imprevue", the bar/hotel  7-km out of town over the Monivong bridge and use their nice swimming pool.  Nit didn't want to go swimming so we headed back to the hotel and ate at the  corner restaurant. Back at the room, she changed her mind and re-considered going swimming, after I showed her an advertisement picture of the swimming  pool. We went to the Central Market, but as the shops were closing (5:30pm), and were unable to find a suitable swimsuit, and returned to the hotel in a  liquid downpour. So we did swim, but without proper attire. Now 6:30pm. Lounged and watched TV then later that evening I took her to Sharky's Bar. We finally found a place that had 'Malibu' liquor, Nit's favorite. We each had a drink  and she ordered Tom Yam goong seafood. Drinks were expensive, even with the  dollar off special on Fridays, as was the food Nit ordered. Total for the two drinks and food was $11.50, more than what we paid to gorge ourselves at Heng  Lek, the previous night. We then went a few blocks to the walkway on Sisowath, along the Tongle Sap river, and looked at the various restaurants and shops. After eating some squid from a street vendor we went back to the hotel, showered, played and then Nit slept while I watched TV for an hour before nodding out.

Sat Sep 21st The fateful day arrives...Nit will fly back to BKK tonight. I awake at 7:30 and take the dirty clothing to the laundry, instructing them to  have it back by 5pm, then return to the room for a little more sleep. I get  up at 10am, Nit finally an hour later. We get breakfast at the hotel restaurant. Where to go...I've shown her all the typical PPenh tourist sights I know and  all those listed in the various guidebooks. We decide to check out the "L'Imprevue" and see the sights en-route. Down Monivong to the Monivong bridge, then 7-km east. The place surprises me and is quite large, having over 20 single green colored bungalows. The advertised pool is also fairly large, as pictured in  their ad. It begins to rain again, so we sit at a large table at the bar and  have a couple of Fanta-green sodas. There are a half dozen people also sitting at the same table, who are later joined by one of the owners and some other guests. All are primarily speaking French and none even acknowledge our presence.  Ah, yes, the arrogance and superciliousness that is often attributed to the French. We finish our soft drinks, read some magazines and I have a coffee as  the rain stops. In still gray clouded skies we head out back to the hotel. It's  now about 3pm. I start filling the bathtub, preparing for a bubble bath for the two of us. When adequately filled we hop in and Nit has her first bath with  real hot water. We lounge and play. Some petting and I intro her to pulsating water aimed at her strategic area. She got really hot! Then the long session begins in the tub and continues in the room, using all the available furniture. A great and lengthy session, some of which was captured on my camera . We watch TV a while then eat at the corner restaurant...her usual Tom Yum Goong. Back to the room for her to pack then the hotel desk informed me the arranged taxi  ($5ea to the airport and another $2 to bring me back to the hotel...$12 total) has arrived 15 minutes early at 6:15. The taxi takes about 25 minutes to get to the airport. He says he'll wait until I've seen her off at 7:30, plane leaving  at 8:10pm. Having some time before her departure, we get some food and coffee at a local place across the street from the airport. ...fried noodles &  pork..delicious and cheap 3500-R.. Walk back to airport and have bags x-rayed  again, the hug Nit at the start of the passenger only area. Wahoo, I am now free to delve into the many sensual pleasures of Cambo, although I've no regrets about having taken a Thai gal with me for part of this trip's adventure. The taxi takes me back to hotel and when asked tells me he was paid $8 for the trip,  being told I paid $10 (a $2 stipend the hotel keeps) rather than the $12 the  hotel charged me. I understand the stipend the driver had to relinquish, but am angry that the hotel lied to both me and the driver, telling the driver I  paid $10 and the hotel telling me the cost was $12. I'll confront the morning desk people tomorrow, who had always been fair with me in the past, ..and get  $2 back as a matter of principle. Once confronted, I doubt they'll ever try that again with me. Back at the Paris, I call Harry Seaman and see what trouble  we can get into tonight. Tom, a guest at the Paris Hotel suggests the 99-Club,  which neither Harry Seaman nor I had heard of before. Across from the Rainbow Club on 242nd St, between Monivong and 63rd St. We were initially rebuffed by  the man at the door, who indicated it was only a karoke. Insistence to see the  gals and he acquiesced and we were led up 4 flights of stairs, all the while  about 20 gals who'd been in the lobby traipsed behind us. They had about 25  on display, but the guy at the desk by the gals on the 4th floor just ignored  our inquiries about prices, so we went back downstairs. Back at the entry I  asked the man who let us in how much the gals were and he said $50/nite, only L/T's. We thanked him and left due to the steep price. Then to Chez Jonny's  on 108th St, east of Monivong and just before Norodom. Only one old couple in  there, with the wheelchair bound wife getting a massage. Two different gals  tried massages on me before a third actually provided some fine massage skills.  Harry Seaman & I purchased the L/D's(about $2) and tipped them $2 for the massage. Fun Viet gals, who freely laughed at my antics. We left there and Harry Seaman led me onward to the Le Cyrcee club, on St. 49, just a few blocks from  the Central market. This club wasn't open when i was in PPenh earlier in the  year. Accosted by three gals, I took a seat at the end of the bar and became  better acquainted with two of them. Shortly, with one on each side of my barstool, both preceded to provide some head, the pudgy one being quite good at her trade.  Neither of the gals wore underwear and allowed free access to their nether regions.  It seemed that this was the norm for all the gals at Le Cyrcee. I declined going upstairs to a room, for $10 ea. and stayed at the bar, with both gals agreeing to $5 each I'd offered if they finished me off. I'd bought them both l/d's earlier. Harry Seaman was embarrassed about public display and took a lass upstairs, without any trial run at the bar, I continued what proved to be at least an  hour's entertainment and stopped, without a sio, just before Harry Seaman returned and indicated his unhappiness with the lack of skills of the gal he took. My  tab was $5 for each gal plus $2 for each Bailey's Irish Cream the gals and I had. Total $16. Harry Seaman and I got on my bike and we moto'd back to the Paris, arriving about 12:30am. I was tired, but needed to finish catching up  on these notes.

Sun Sep 22rd Harry Seaman and I go to the Lazy Gecko for breakfast. I have him take a moto rather than take him on my motorcycle, as his weight, compared  to the 38-kilo Nit as a passenger, proved a challenge for me on my motorcycle.  I highly recommend the food at the Lazy Gecko; the owner, Craig, is an excellent  cook and usually prepares the evening meals. Morning meals are also good, but prepared by the Khmer staff. We eat and return to the hotel to get some money, then agree to meet at K-11 in a few hours. When I arrive at K-11, Harry Seaman had already satiated himself with a s/t. I had a beer then he takes me to house 10, I get a pair of yum gals, deciding to take only one of the two. 'Wxx' was a 20y/o and slightly pudgy Viet from Saigon, who had started working four years ago in SR and has been in PP for the last two years. Her oral persistence led to my receiving two sio's. Wxx earned her $2 tip over the $5 for the s/t. We'd  showered both before and after, then she directed me to sit at one of the tables,  when suddenly all of the gals, who had been at the front of the house began running by, towards the back of the house. 'Wxx' had me to quickly join them and course through a number of rooms to finally exit out the back of the house.  Evidently the police were out front, or they received a warning of their impending arrival. Going out the back door I was greeted with a muddy area and some pig styies full of some large hogs. I stopped to take some pictures then continued to trudge through the mud, ending at the first road perpendicular to the entrance to K-11. I walked back to Home Away from Home restaurant and found Harry Seaman.  It began raining and when it subsided I rode back to the hotel. Harry Seaman's  moto had yet to return at the appointed 4pm time when I left. At the hotel I lounged then got food at the corner restaurant (7000-R), then walked to the  local market, getting some toiletries, a bottle of Kahlua ($9)and a carton UHT-treated  milk. Back at the hotel a toke and some Kahlua & milk helped me decide to do nothing that night, but relax watching the TV.

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Trat: NP Guesthouse is a nice, clean and inexpensive place (60-70-Bt/night)  to stay if you arrive in Trat too late to get to the border before it closes  at 5pm. Moon and Kit run the place. Moon is a Khmer and speaks English, Thai, and some French in addition to his native Khmer. Moon is a very good source for info. His wife, Kit is a good cook and they offer a decent variety of Thai  and Western foods. The Internet is available on their two computers. NP G/H  is located near the river, about 150-meters from the Trat bus station. Walk  south, from the bus station to the traffic light (Lak Muang Rd.). Go left about  two blocks and look down the street, to the right, and the sign for the NP G/H  is about 30 meters down the side street. I've stayed there a number of times, rather than pay a bunch just for a place to sleep before heading to the border early in the morning. Tell Moon that the guy with the Dalama CD's sent you.

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Koh Kong: Phoumint KohKong Hotel - Opened just a few months ago and highly recommended! Their guest register showed that I was only the 20th person to  stay there since they opened. No other hotel in KKong offers similar value for  their rooms. Located on the river front, just go south (turn right) along the waterfront road, about 100 meters when exiting the bridge into Koh Kong. You  can't miss seeing it. A 2-story building, with rooms along both the front and  back. Rooms at the back have a view of the river. All rooms are of similar size and have tile floors and high ceilings, bathrooms. Some rooms have two-double beds, others have a single queen-sized bed. Being a new building, everything is very clean. TV's are small (13-15"), but they have the better UBS channels (HBO, Discover, etc), in addition to the common and boring Thai/Khmer channels. Also, the hotel is located less than 100 meters from the ferry landing. Quite convenient! Rates for 2nd floor rooms: -AC, TV, refrig & hot water: $15/600-Bt;  same room w/out hot water is $12/500-Bt. Rates for lower floor rooms: -AC, TV, refrig, but no hot water: $10/400-Bt Fan, TV, no refrig or hot water: $6/250-Bt; same room w/out refrig: $5/200-Bt
[Note: update 2/04: The 500 & 600-Bt rooms are a ripoff...unless haven't
acclimated and can't survive w/out hot water or A/C. The only real value is
the 200-Bt room, which due to popularity are hard to come by in high season
w/out a reservation. 'rookie'}

Ta-Tai Waterfalls: This is probably the most spectacular site in the Koh Kong  area. Recommended for any who are staying a few days in town. Best to rent a moto (100-Bt, but you must bargain)) and take your gal there, especially during the dry season, when the water levels are low and you can play in the waters.  The wide dirt road is excellent during the dry season. At the end of the road  (see Sep 14th description above), they have a larger flat boat for cars and  people to cross the river to the town and road on the other side. Also where the road meets the river there is a stand where soft drinks can be purchased.  At the stand you can ask about renting a small boat for the 4-5-km (?) trip  (about 30 minutes) to the falls. Be sure and negotiate the boat rate which shouldn't  be more than 200-250-Bt, even when the boat waits a few hours while you frolic in the falls. Very scenic jungle and riverside fishing huts en-route to the  falls.
[Note 2/04: there are now more stands and sellers in the area, but prices
remain the same. If no upriver boat available on one side of the river, take the
large flat boat to the other side and seek to rent a boat to go to the falls.
You can leave your motos on the near side unless you wish to explore the road
and many villages on the other side.]
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Sihanoukville: Inexpensive accommodations: (note: prices as of Sep-2002; may be more during high season)

Marlin Bar and Guesthouse - located on Ekareach, near the Tex-Star gas station.  Stairs to the three stories above the bar which have the rooms. Rooms are old  but fairly clean. Stayed in a fan room, bathroom w/out hot water, and no TV  for $5. Room older furniture, bedding was musty, hence moved after one night  to another hotel. They do have rooms with AC, TV and hot water at $10+. Later spoke about the room with Aussie owner (Richard) and he appreciated the input  and surely the problems I experienced will have been corrected long before anyone  reads this. Food at the Marlin is good and recommended; it has an Aussie flair.

NASA Hotel - located on Ekareach just before the Golden Lion Traffic Circle. An older hotel and no restaurant. Fan room, bathroom w/out hot water, with refrig and TV (and the good UBC cable channels) was only $5. Rooms were clean, old  furniture; many had two double beds - each roomy enough for my 6' frame and  a lady. Use the extra bed as a waiting room if you double/triple book ladies?  Only drawback was I had an interior room, hence no window to let the morning  sun wake me. Request a room with a window. They also have some large rooms that sleep 5 or more as well as rooms with hot water ($10+). This place proved an  excellent value for me. Not upscale, but great for the budget minded.

UPDATE 2/04: The best value in places to stay in IMHO, is not the Fisherman's  Den which many like, but the newly refurbished Oasis Hotel on Ekareach, about  100m from
the road to the market and Starfish Restaurant-best breakfasts @ $1.75. All  rooms have HW and A/C and are the largest I've seen (about 60sqM or 550sqFt),  for the price, in any Cambo hotel. Prices are $10 & $15/nite; all rooms  are large. If you stay for 4-days or more the owner (Brian) will give you the $15 room for $10/nite. Tell him Dr. Jay sent you. E-mail Brian: bedhog49@hotmail.com.

Mick & Craig's Bar/Restaurant. Located downtown, just off of Ekareach on Sopheakmongkol. Decent food and after 9pm, has the cheapest mixed drink prices in town ($1.50).
[Update 2/04: Mick & Craig's have moved to a sidestreet just off the Golden  Lion traffic circle. The place is much larger and nicely decorated, and now has rooms available. I forgot to ask Mick about room prices.]

No need to mention the chicken ranch, Bibo's or the (marginal) Blue Mtn., as they have been often discussed elsewhere. There is also a house, with Viet gals, about halfway from the market to the go-kart track, on the right. Note the high  walls with barbed wire atop. No take out but ST & LT available on premises. No recommend from me but YMMV, as I can comment only on one gal and the service was not the greatest.

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